Because I’m not at the tents this season I’ve enlisted fashion enthusiast Sarah Fredoef to give you the lowdown on the collections she’s seen flash before her eyes for fall 2011.
While most of us are waiting for the warm spring days, the design world is two seasons ahead. It’s Fall Fashion Week in New York, and Lincoln Center is bustling with energy, as designers bring forth their newest collections. The designers’ collections I’ve outlined here were fashionista favorites and indicative of what you’ll see come autumn.
Som lived up to his statement of making “real clothes for real women.” He presented classic, more tailored shapes in a variety of textiles: wools, metallic jaquard, tweeds, cottons, silks, and some fur accents. His palette of charcoal, black, crimson, grey, burnt sienna, and khaki kept the line muted and wearable, while splashes of hot pink and cobalt blue added an exciting pop of color.
Luca Luca’s looks were clearly inspired by nature. As Raul Melgoza put it, he thought of a woman “traveling through the woods.” The blouses and dresses incorporated berry branch prints, while skirts and pants often sported a wood grain print. The clothes themselves were very structured: cigarette pants, blazers and trousers, sheathes, sometimes draped in slim fur coats and jackets with contrasting colored collars and cuffs. Neutrals and earth colors were spiced up with chocolate, persimmon, burgundy, and fuschia. Accessories such as brightly colored belts and necklaces made the more muted outfits eye-catching.
Richard Chai’s clothing was clean and chic, with a slight androgynous edge. He presented an interesting interplay of silhouettes, for example, contrasting the tight fit of an ankle-length dress with a floppy cowl neckline and marrying trousers to palazzo pants at the by adding knife pleats at the thigh. Slouchy cigarette pants, sheer dresses with asymetrical patches of cotton or silk, and layers of coats over jackets over floor-length dresses or pants gave the neutral-toned line added visual impact.
Libertine produced a collection with an exceptional energy. It resurrected 50s-60s chic simple shapes with exciting colors and patterns: Jet black set off hot pink, cobalt, neon yellow, rose, chartruce, sky blue, emerald, bright orange, and silver, many colors used in tight tonal juxtaposition with impressive pattern mixing. Most pieces had either graphic, gridlike prints, designs and symbols, or large florals. Johnson Hartig took the opportunity to mix prints and color within each outfit, from tops to tights to shoes. The bright floral cosages, multi-colored oxford shoes, and screen printed hats and gloves, carried the looks to stunning completion, making this surely the most eye-catching show thus far.
Nicholas K’s collection was inspired by the designers’ upstate getaway. Using the staples of rugged outdoor apparel, such as puffy vests, thick knee socks, heavy boots and parkas, they added elements of rocker chic (such as black leather bomber jackets with silver hardware) and cozy grunge (plaid flannel shirts and distressed trousers). The color palette (neutrals, including olive, khaki, burnt sienna, and seaform green), found its loveliest expression, however, when they channeled a boho vibe, with flounced and flowy dresses, feather accents, and head scarves that added a distinctly feminine touch.Tweet this!